I mentioned a few weeks ago that I was going to start going to dressmaking classes, run by a lovely lady from U3A. I had my first session this week and went along full of enthusiasm, clutching patterns and fabric for the first two pieces of my summer holiday wardrobe. I've decided to start off with very straightforward, flowing, wide leg trousers, and a simple sleeveless top. No zips, buttons or fastenings of any kind to bamboozle and flummox me.
The tutor explained that she'd have to take extensive measurements firsts, as I'd be adjusting the pattern to my size before I even thought about cutting out my fabrics. Fair enough, I thought.
Now I probably should explain at this point, that I do have a definite shape. And that shape is Weeble.
Or, in fashion parlance, I'm pear shaped. Although to be fair, I do have a bit of what I laughingly call my waist, somewhere in the middle, but it's all downhill from there.
Anyway, the measuring process took up most of the session. Apparently trousers, even ones with elasticated waists are quite tricky. Who knew? After comparing my measurements with the actual paper pattern, the tutor declared that she'd have to add 3 inches to the 'rise', front and back. I do prefer high rise trousers, but while they're often ok at the front, they usually gape at the back. If I was shaped like a washboard they'd have been fine, but to accommodate my womanly curves *cough* the pattern would have to be adjusted. The rest of the session was taken up with making a new paper pattern, from which I was to make a 'toile'.
A toile is a prototype or fitting version of a garment that's made up in an inexpensive fabric so that the design can be tested and perfected. The name comes from the fabric of the same name that was originally used in their construction – a translucent linen or cotton fabric.
So, this morning I decided to set about it, and spent a while up the shed, dodging spiders and trying to find an old bed sheet which I'd used when decorating. Ok, so it has a few paint spatters on it, but I didn't think that would matter. After several hours, some of which were spent trying to identify a problem with my admittedly ancient sewing machine, I managed to construct a toile of the top section of the trousers, which looked disconcertingly like a huge nappy. Of course the waist was too big, as it was missing its elasticated waistband, and there were no legs as they were irrelevant because it was the waist to crutch area which needed adjusting.
I duly pressed the big nappy and tried it on. If I pulled it up to my waist at the front, the centre back was more than halfway down my bum. And vice versa. I felt crushed.
After a cup of tea and a biscuit, and a good moan to PP about how rubbish I was at dressmaking and why on earth hadn't she advised me not to, and she said she had, but of course I'd got a bee in my bonnet about making clothes and had disregarded both her and Small Dog's admonishments to completely abandon the whole idea.
Unburdened and refreshed, I decided to make a completely new toile so watched eleventy different You Tube videos which all suggested slightly different methods. Luckily I'd bought some pattern paper so it was the work of a mere 3 hours to produce new pattern pieces, which look a bit odd so I'm not convinced they're going to work properly either. I haven't enough life in me to attempt another toile today so tomorrow I'll get back to it and see how the next disaster pans out.
At this rate I'll still be making them while on the beach on holiday... *sigh*
To be continued.....
3 comments:
I'm sure it'll all come right in the end :)
I know you offered to make me some but umm it's ok I don't think I'd wear them ;-) I think it's gin o' clock!!
Hi Sandra, And PP! I feel your "pain" about the need to make certain adjustments. As a teenager (almost before the flood) I used to make my clothes... mini skirts, mini dresses, bell bottoms! I love to sew so I quickly caught on about "adjusting patterns". Although, my adjustments were the "take it in" variety because I was so "small" every where that mattered to a teenager! It takes a while to learn where the adjustments need to be... cloth that becomes three dimensional from flat has certain "properties" that have to be honored (this is just physics
!) Lol! I have confidence in your abilities!!! Anybody who can design and create tiny ceramic bodies and dress them has a natural leg up on the clothing design business! Just think of yourself as a "giant doll"! :):) And always leave a bigger seam allowance than you think you will need on the initial runs at least..... You can do this!
I am so pleased that SOMEONE has confidence in my dressmaking abilities. Good call on the seam allowance too! 😁
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